I have to admit I was a little dubious about any hard cider that comes with the suggestion to "serve over ice!"

I was born and raised in Asturias, a region of northern Spain that is very similar to where I live now in western Pennsylvania. Apple orchards are a common sight in both of these landscapes. In Asturias, hard cider is one of the most popular and commonly enjoyed alcoholic beverages, but not in Pennsylvania, nor (as far as I know) anywhere in the U.S.

Hard cider is starting to develop a following in this country, but is still viewed by many as an inferior choice to beer. Maybe because of different marketing strategies, I find that many hard ciders in this country have many other ingredients other than just fermented apple juice, which is basically the main ingredient in fine European hard ciders. A good example is Crispin Hard Cider, which offers the suggestion of serving over ice–a bizarre idea bordering on sacrilege for someone raised on Asturian sidra! This beverage contains hard cider, filtered water, apple juice concentrate and natural apple essence. As a sweet apple flavored drink, well, it’s not bad. It’s probably a drink that would be enjoyed by many, but it’s not hard cider, not my kind of hard cider that you would drink as you would a beer. This Crispin cider beverage reminds me of an appletini or dessert drink–something like granny smith sorbet, not hard cider. But who knows–maybe it’s an encouraging sign to see more ciders on the market, even if they don’t necessarily match my idea of what hard cider should be.

Farnum Hill semi-dry hard cider, a great choice for our Thanksgiving feast!

Now, a good American hard cider is made in New Hampshire at Farnum Hill. Farnum Hill ciders are–in my modest opinion–great hard ciders. I have much to say about Farnum Hill, but for this entry, I will just say that Farnum Hill Semi-dry cider was my choice for this year’s Thanksgiving dinner, and it was a great pairing to our harvest feast.

Buen provecho!

Figs stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped in jamon serrano

At a gathering earlier this fall some people were astonished to hear that I had a good fig harvest this year. A good harvest for my fig tree is around twenty to thirty figs. I now live in Pennsylvania–not the best climate for figs–but like many of my fellow “diegos” I have found a way to have our home grown figs. The fig tree makes a great addition to our patio in the summer. It’s about four feet high and confined to a large pot. Then, during the winter months, the fig tree hibernates in the garage.

Some people have their fig trees planted outside in an area protected from the weather and they wrap them when winter comes. I have also heard of people digging trenches and burying them during the winter (but that’s Paolo, the world’s only Italian redneck, so I’m not sure how common a practice this is). But for the most part, fig trees are easy to take care of and are fairly pest free. The only thing you’ll notice from time to time is a little damage from birds eating holes in the fruit, which is common with most fruit trees.

This year we had also had a chipmunk problem. A chipmunk discovered the figs and couldn’t get enough. One morning we saw this chipmunk carrying a fig in its mouth. The fig was almost as big as the rodent and loaded it down to where it was walking on its front legs only: the back legs were not touching the ground. I let the chipmunk get away since we had enjoyed so many figs this year, but I don’t know if I’ll let it happen again next year. Watch out, rodent.

Fethi whips up a Turkish specialty pizza at Giovanni's Pizza & Pasta in Dormont

Some might say that Pittsburgh has a lot to be desired when it comes to good food and places to find it. Hell, I catch myself complaining from time to time. But then I discover an out of the way place with delicious food, and I remember that Pittsburgh is the city of “hidden treasures.”

One of these culinary hidden treasures is Giovanni’s Pizza and Pasta in Dormont, owned and operated by Turkish engineer Fethi Turan. You might wonder what an engineer is doing cooking. Well, he engineers some tasty stuff.

Last Saturday morning I happened to stop by. He had friends visiting and he was busy making Turkish specialties for the guests. Right away I noticed the soujouk sausage on the counter. This is a traditional Turkish beef sausage, similar to a semi-cured chorizo sausage. He was in the process of making soujouk-sausage-and-eggs pide. Pide is a Turkish street food or a quick dish they might throw together at home for brunch, Fethi tells me.

Giovanni’s is a pizza shop and pide is like a pizza, Fethi says to me. See, Pi-zzzaaa—Pi—deeee, kind of similar, right? Hmm, I’m not arguing linguistics with you right now, Fethi, GIMME SOME PI–DE!

On the pizza dough that he has shaped like a canoe, he lays slices of soujouk and then runs it quickly through the pizza oven to get the dough and sausage going. When it comes out, butter and a little olive oil are added. Sometimes lard instead of butter, Fethi points out, but butter for this time. Then the eggs are cracked on top of the butter and back to the oven. When the pide comes out, the eggs are perfectly cooked. The dough and sausage are ready also. A drizzle of lemon oil for balance. “You better eat it while it’s hot!” Fethi instructs. A bite of this and you have all that is brunch in your mouth. Delicious and incredibly light tasting. Perfect addition to any brunch, or maybe a late night snack.

The delicious end result: pide! All the flavors of brunch in your mouth at once.

Giovanni’s and Fethi have many tasty surprises like this one. Give them a call, stop by, you won’t be disappointed.

Buen Provecho!

Giovanni’s Pizza & Pasta
3047 W Liberty Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15216
Phone: (412) 344-6622
Email: contact@eatgiovannis.com
Fax: (412) 344-7778

Look, Daddy's on TV!

This Thanksgiving season, I have been thankful for–among other things–good food, good friends, and public television–and I got to celebrate all these things with Chris Fennimore during WQED‘s current pledge drive!

After tasting the soup I had prepared for Fat Club’s Harvest Day, Chris asked me to contribute the recipe to his Soups & Stews book, which is one of the membership gifts people can choose when they support WQED. And I was lucky enough to be available to go to the studio and cook this recipe during the pledge drive. Cooking on TV sounded like a fun experience, so last Saturday morning I showed up at the station with my “Spanish Harvest Soup” ready to go.

We had twelve minutes to make the soup, and the show was broadcast live! With the help from the magic of television and Chris’s expertise as a host, we were able to explain the basics of the soup and even have a taste before our time together in front of the cameras was over.

It was a great time–thank you Chris and WQED!

Buen provecho!

WQED's Pittsburgh 360 filming at Vivo

The first rule of Fat Club is, “There is no Fat Club,” but it’s getting harder to deny it all the time–especially with attendees like Chris Fennimore and the WQED/Pittsburgh 360 crew. They were welcome additions to our latest gathering, but they don’t keep a low profile.

Chris came ready to cook. He brought bread dough and before we knew it he had the counter floured and was shaping the loaf into a braid, demonstrating that he was very comfortable in the kitchen and that without a doubt he is one of us. Then Chris started to go around the kitchen, talking to the attendees while the bread was rising.

This Fat Club wasn’t much different than any other in the past. The only major difference was that when time came to talk about our dishes, we did it in front of a camera. Even as the dishes were assembled the camera man would come around to check on their progress.

As always we had a very broad and colorful menu: everything from mussel seviche to curried osso bucco. I made my version of a harvest soup and—surprise! It was vegetarian!

I know, no one else believed me, either. Everyone kept asking if I had used pork (“Jamon Serrano? Pork Belly? Bacon grease?”) but I didn’t, and it was delicious. No worries folks, I’m not turning vegetarian.

I’m not going to say much more about this month’s Fat Club. Many more “secrets” will be revealed in November when Fat Club is featured on WQED’s Pittsburgh 360 on Thanksgiving evening.

I will say that Chris’ bread was very tasty and I’d really like to thank Chris Fennimore; Rick Cook, the Pittsburgh 360 producer; and Bob Lubomski, the friendliest camera man I’ve ever met, for taking time from their schedule on a Sunday afternoon and sharing it with us.

Thank you all and Buen Provecho!

Chris Fennimore's bread

talking to Chris about the vegitarian soup I made for our "Harvest"-themed Fat Club

a few Fat Club works in progress

judge's ballot for Savor Pittsburgh event

Every year towards the end of August a formation of white tents is erected in the parking lot next to McCormick & Schmick’s to hold Savor Pittsburgh, a fund raiser for the American Respiratory Alliance. Under these tents more than twenty local restaurants compete for “Dish of the year.” A live band plays while the crowds enjoy some of the best culinary examples this city has to offer.

This year I was under one of the coolest tents, the culinary judges’ tent. It was a pleasure and honor to be chosen and I had a great time.

Events like this are always a great opportunity for me to see many of my colleagues and friends. And with all these great people around and excellent food, who can ask for more? For this occasion my wife, Laura, was able to come. She has not been able to get out of the house much lately since the twins were born. And yes, the twins were there also. They are a little young to enjoy any of this food yet–8 weeks old, but soon enough.

But, going back my main focus of the night, the food–1300 people had a chance to savor anything from meatballs to satays. And at the end of the night after all the votes were tallied the results were:

• Best Appetizer: SAVOY Restaurant and Lounge with the SAVOY Satay
• Best Entree: Tusca Global Tapas with the Pepper Pork Mignon, Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Apple Creme Fraiche
• Best Dessert: Tree Tops Restaurant with the Praline and Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Praline Sauce and Candied Pecans
• People’s Choice: McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant, SouthSide Works
• Dish of the Year: Tree Tops Restaurant with the Praline and Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Praline Sauce and Candied Pecans

I’m already looking forward to next years’ Savor Pittsburgh. I recommend it to everyone!

Buen provecho!

this meal was presented in a tagine

me, Christina French of Table Magazine, and Mike Lee of WQED

Savor Pittsburgh’s annual “Dish of the Year” competition
McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant in SouthSide Works
Thursday, September 2, 2010, 6:30 p.m.

Buen provecho!

grilled pound cake with "cherries on the bone" (photos courtesy of Christian Kahle)

It’s grilling time again and here at Vivo we take grilling very seriously–OK, so maybe seriously is not the word, but grilling is a way of life for us. In our latest event here at Vivo we grilled everything, even the dessert.

The dessert, cherries on pound cake–or as Christian Kahle, one of the event’s attendees called it, “cherries on the bone”–was a big hit.

We all have seen the fruit and grilled pound cake desserts before, nothing new here. What was so great about this dessert is that I used all the elements of the cherry–not just the cherries, but the branches of the tree and leaves were used in the making of this dish.

I blanched the leaves and shocked them in preparation for the grill. The cherries were pitted and skewered on the cherry brunches, and this is why Christian called them “cherries on the bone”. Then I made a simple syrup (same amount water and sugar) and reduced it with a shot of cherry liquor.

I put the cherries on the grill for a quick caramelization and to give them that “grilled” flavor. And I slid them off the branch and into the cherry liquor syrup.

While the cherries were resting in the syrup I put the pound cake on the grill. As the pound cake caramelized on the grill it smelled like smores; everyone wondered if that was what they were getting for dessert. I placed the cherry leaves on top of the pound cake, flipped it on to the leaf side for a quick sear, and it was done.

I placed the pound cake leaf side down on the plate. I arranged a couple cherries on top of the pound cake and then drizzled a little of the by now grilled cherry liquor syrup, and there it was. A great grilling out dessert.

Buen provecho!

first course: ajo blanco, chorizo and potato fritter, manchego cheese and tomato confit

A few days ago Vivo hosted its first tapas night. Sam is a big fan of this cuisine and because of my background, well–we had to have this event. Sam gave me complete freedom with the menu and we both had a lot of fun making all the food.

I really wanted to keep it very traditional and at the same time be able to bring in all those flavors that mean great tapas to me. It was all about the simplicity of the food and good ingredients.

We started the meal with a refreshing palate cleanser–a bite of a pinot noir granita.

For the first course we had Ajo Blanco, a cold soup made with marcona almonds and garlic garnished with grapes–a big hit. This course also included a fun Chorizo and Potato Fritter served over a garlic aoli. Garlic was very present in this menu, no vampires were around this night! And a Tomato Confit served over Manchego Cheese was the third element of this course.

in the old country, they always put a cork in the pot when cooking octopus

Baby Octopus “a la gallega,” octopus cooked with smoked paprika, was probably the favorite of the night and the beginning of the second course. This dish had a little spiciness and the lentil salad was perfect for cooling down your palate and continuing to the Wild Mushroom dish, in this case, chanterelles cooked in a light tomato sauce.

Probably one of the most interesting dishes we made this night was the Salt Baked Pork Tenderloin. We infused fresh herbs into the pork giving it a clean but complex touch, then served it with Serrano Ham. You might ask, “Pork with pork?” You need try it. This was a great start for the last course, I thought. I wanted a hearty but light combination of flavors, if that is possible.

second course: baby octopus a la gallega, lentil salad, wild mushrooms

We followed this with a very traditional “albondiga”–meatball with an apricot and pine nut sauce. Meatballs have always been one of my favorite “homey” dishes. In Spain they are usually served with a light beef jus and potatoes, or how I served them for this event with a sweet, very Moorish sauce. The frisée salad featured citrus and saffron–flavors that simply couldn’t be left out. A taste of them reminds me of a great afternoon in Valencia.

The meal finished with a trio of sorbets that Lori made specially for the evening.

One of the best parts of the evening was being able to circulate among the tables as the meal progressed. It was nice to get everyone’s feedback and share my enthusiasm for the dishes. Everyone was very happy with their meal and wanted to know when we’ll do something like this again. I know it will be soon. Buen provecho!

we packed the pork tenderloin in herbs and salt before putting it in the oven

third course: salt baked pork, albondiga, frisee salad

Heather Mull photographing dishes in Vivo’s kitchen for Fat Club

Once again it was time for Fat Club. This month an awesome array of seafood was enjoyed by all.

We had a cold soup with mussels, grilled paku fish ribs, melon and shrimp salad, wild mushrooms and trout, lemony seafood pizza, squid cooked in its own ink, and frog legs. Yes, frog legs, and I agree–I don’t think they are seafood either!

A new addition at this month’s get-together was Heather Mull, photographer extraordinaire. She was there to take shots for an article I’m writing for next month’s issue of Table Magazine. I’m very excited to have this opportunity. Let me know what you think!

Buen Provecho!