Savor Pittsburgh’s annual “Dish of the Year” competition
McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant in SouthSide Works
Thursday, September 2, 2010, 6:30 p.m.

Buen provecho!

grilled pound cake with "cherries on the bone" (photos courtesy of Christian Kahle)

It’s grilling time again and here at Vivo we take grilling very seriously–OK, so maybe seriously is not the word, but grilling is a way of life for us. In our latest event here at Vivo we grilled everything, even the dessert.

The dessert, cherries on pound cake–or as Christian Kahle, one of the event’s attendees called it, “cherries on the bone”–was a big hit.

We all have seen the fruit and grilled pound cake desserts before, nothing new here. What was so great about this dessert is that I used all the elements of the cherry–not just the cherries, but the branches of the tree and leaves were used in the making of this dish.

I blanched the leaves and shocked them in preparation for the grill. The cherries were pitted and skewered on the cherry brunches, and this is why Christian called them “cherries on the bone”. Then I made a simple syrup (same amount water and sugar) and reduced it with a shot of cherry liquor.

I put the cherries on the grill for a quick caramelization and to give them that “grilled” flavor. And I slid them off the branch and into the cherry liquor syrup.

While the cherries were resting in the syrup I put the pound cake on the grill. As the pound cake caramelized on the grill it smelled like smores; everyone wondered if that was what they were getting for dessert. I placed the cherry leaves on top of the pound cake, flipped it on to the leaf side for a quick sear, and it was done.

I placed the pound cake leaf side down on the plate. I arranged a couple cherries on top of the pound cake and then drizzled a little of the by now grilled cherry liquor syrup, and there it was. A great grilling out dessert.

Buen provecho!

first course: ajo blanco, chorizo and potato fritter, manchego cheese and tomato confit

A few days ago Vivo hosted its first tapas night. Sam is a big fan of this cuisine and because of my background, well–we had to have this event. Sam gave me complete freedom with the menu and we both had a lot of fun making all the food.

I really wanted to keep it very traditional and at the same time be able to bring in all those flavors that mean great tapas to me. It was all about the simplicity of the food and good ingredients.

We started the meal with a refreshing palate cleanser–a bite of a pinot noir granita.

For the first course we had Ajo Blanco, a cold soup made with marcona almonds and garlic garnished with grapes–a big hit. This course also included a fun Chorizo and Potato Fritter served over a garlic aoli. Garlic was very present in this menu, no vampires were around this night! And a Tomato Confit served over Manchego Cheese was the third element of this course.

in the old country, they always put a cork in the pot when cooking octopus

Baby Octopus “a la gallega,” octopus cooked with smoked paprika, was probably the favorite of the night and the beginning of the second course. This dish had a little spiciness and the lentil salad was perfect for cooling down your palate and continuing to the Wild Mushroom dish, in this case, chanterelles cooked in a light tomato sauce.

Probably one of the most interesting dishes we made this night was the Salt Baked Pork Tenderloin. We infused fresh herbs into the pork giving it a clean but complex touch, then served it with Serrano Ham. You might ask, “Pork with pork?” You need try it. This was a great start for the last course, I thought. I wanted a hearty but light combination of flavors, if that is possible.

second course: baby octopus a la gallega, lentil salad, wild mushrooms

We followed this with a very traditional “albondiga”–meatball with an apricot and pine nut sauce. Meatballs have always been one of my favorite “homey” dishes. In Spain they are usually served with a light beef jus and potatoes, or how I served them for this event with a sweet, very Moorish sauce. The frisée salad featured citrus and saffron–flavors that simply couldn’t be left out. A taste of them reminds me of a great afternoon in Valencia.

The meal finished with a trio of sorbets that Lori made specially for the evening.

One of the best parts of the evening was being able to circulate among the tables as the meal progressed. It was nice to get everyone’s feedback and share my enthusiasm for the dishes. Everyone was very happy with their meal and wanted to know when we’ll do something like this again. I know it will be soon. Buen provecho!

we packed the pork tenderloin in herbs and salt before putting it in the oven

third course: salt baked pork, albondiga, frisee salad

Heather Mull photographing dishes in Vivo’s kitchen for Fat Club

Once again it was time for Fat Club. This month an awesome array of seafood was enjoyed by all.

We had a cold soup with mussels, grilled paku fish ribs, melon and shrimp salad, wild mushrooms and trout, lemony seafood pizza, squid cooked in its own ink, and frog legs. Yes, frog legs, and I agree–I don’t think they are seafood either!

A new addition at this month’s get-together was Heather Mull, photographer extraordinaire. She was there to take shots for an article I’m writing for next month’s issue of Table Magazine. I’m very excited to have this opportunity. Let me know what you think!

Buen Provecho!

One of my bark plant markers

A few of you have been asking me about my garden. For those of you that don’t know–I like to garden as well as cook. I find it very relaxing and I truly believe that nothing tastes better than when it comes from your garden.

This year I broke ground for a new garden spot. It’s not very big but I already have plans for expansion. The soil needed a little care as years of growing grass have not been kind to it.

After a little TLC–tilling and horse manure–the veggies are well on their way.

One thing I did do a little differently this year, that I thought was pretty nice, is the plant markers that I made out of bark.

I like to use markers for my tomato plants because I always plant a few different varieties and by the fall I don’t remember which one is which. For the past few years I was using plastic markers. Before that I used wooden markers but after using them a few times I would have to throw them away and I felt they were too expensive for what I was getting. So this year, I had some old branches I had cut down in the spring and I took a few bark shavings from them. And they made excellent markers. Little things like this can help keep down the cost of your garden.

What do you use for plant markers in your garden?

Buen provecho!

An array of mushrooms from Wild Purveyors!

Fungi, lots of fungi–this week was all about mushrooms. Sam and I prepared a menu to feature the nicest finds of the season, which included royal trumpets, maitake, beech, pom poms, and white truffles.

Mushroom lovers gathered in the kitchen with us for this special occasion. Cavan and Tom from Wild Purveyors brought the mushrooms and a few delicious local cheeses. A quick introduction was given by the “mushroom guys” and we started to cook.

For an appetizer, we sauteed the royal trumpets and served them on a grilled crostini with raclette cheese melted over them. Then we threw the maitake on the grill, chopped them up, and added another treasure of the season: fiddle-head ferns. We tossed them in a roasted garlic scape vinaigrette. All this was then served over an endive leaf.

The pasta course was Sam’s handmade rustic pasta with pan seared beech mushrooms. (Sam is Italian, so, some things we can’t go without!)

Buffalo sliders were the main course: grilled patties with creamy gorgonzola and pom poms cooked in butter. They were probably the largest sliders I have ever seen–I don’t know if we can really even call them “sliders.”

And for dessert–yes, a mushroom dessert–white truffle panna cotta. I even made a truffle caramel to go over them. They were tasty if I may say so myself.

We loved having this enthusiastic group cooking with us. It was very informative as well, and if nothing else, we shared a little of us and that’s what we enjoy. I can’t wait for the next opportunity to cook with Vivo’s fans.

Buen provecho!

scapes and maitake on the grill

red and green endive salad with fiddlehead ferns

Sharron Peterson

Before I begin, let me say that I love Thumper as much as anyone. My memories of him frolicking with Bambi in the grass are very vivid. So let me assure you that I understand why many of you are wary of wary of the Hare. However, rabbits have been considered a viable protein source all over the world for centuries. One might even call rabbit Europe’s “other white meat.” So, today, I ask you to set your visions of the Easter Bunny and talking rabbits aside as we give credence to this wine friendly, versatile meat.

Let’s begin with some Rabbit Food History.

According to Rabbit records, our consumption of the hare dates at least as far back as the Phoenicians (3,000 B.C.), whose sailors discovered rabbits.

The Romans later used rabbit meat to feed their soldiers, and even developed enclosed wall areas called “leporaria” to keep wild rabbits ready for eating. In the Middle Ages, Monks kept “leporaria” and began breeding for weight, color and even flavor profile. By the 16th century King Henry VIII took to hunting them for sport (yes, he was a little nuts). And his daughter Queen Elizabeth kept “rabbit islands” where the little critters could run free and flourish. This is actually how Coney Island got its name: the Dutch named the island “Conyne Eylandt” which translates to “rabbit island.”

There are still rabbit islands today, but most rabbits in this country are bred for pets. Which takes us back to our original topic – rabbits as food.

One common misconception is that rabbit tastes like chicken. Well, it doesn’t–it tastes like rabbit! Rabbit is considered a “game” meat and offers a savory, softer flavor profile than chicken. It is low in fat and can be chopped, fried, diced, sliced… prepared any way your hopping heart desires. Rabbit is a white meat and well suited for spring, summer, autumn, or even winter. Because of this versatility it pairs well with many red and white wines.

For example, let’s take a look at Chef Daniel’s rabbit and pear dish.

Chef marinates his rabbit in a flavorful mixture of salt, pepper, garlic, and calvados. The seasoned pieces are sauteed and served with pear, rutabaga, and turnips. What a scrumptious combo! In order to pair wine with this dish, I look at the most dominant components: garlic, its fried preparation, salt, and pear.

In order to stand up to the garlic and the fried preparation, we must choose a wine with enough acid to “cut through” these qualities. Also, we need a wine that will neither accentuate the salt nor overpower the delicate flavors of the pear.

My Choices
Reds: Oregon/ French Pinot Noir or a nice Chateauneuf-du-Pape from the Rhone Valley

Whites: Alsatian Riesling or a white Rhone such as Marsanne or Rousanne

All of these wines are known for their vibrant fruit flavors yet have enough of a backbone (acid) to stand up to the garlic and fried preparation.

So, there you have it. Prepare Chef Daniel’s Rabbit and Pear dish, choose a wine and remember that food and wine is best when shared!

Sommelier Sharron Peterson

I’m very pleased to introduce to you my friend Sharron Peterson! She’s a fun, energetic, and very likable wine professional and I can’t wait for you guys to get to know her a little better. Sharron will be helping me out with wine pairings for my recipes. It should be a lot of fun. Here’s a little more about Sharron:

Sharron Peterson is a sommelier, wine educator and a soon to be a graduate of the University of California Davis Winemaking/Enology Program. For 13 years, she has lived the “wine life” in major cities such as San Francisco, Napa, and Seattle. She is on a mission to educate wine lovers in a fun, snob-free zone throughout the country.

Whether it’s for a wine class of 10 or a TV appearance, Sharron brings her wine knowledge, unique career experience and a never ending repertoire of wine tales to create an entertaining, educational experience for wine lovers of all ages. In the future she will be releasing her own wine and pursuing her love for writing. Currently, Sharron has been chosen from over 1,000 candidates nationwide as a cast member for season II of the reality show The Winemakers, which is set to air on PBS in 2010.

Web: www.sharronpeterson.com

Joe Harvey and Jennifer Lingenfelter of Local Restaurant Week

Once again Pittsburgh Magazine hosted the Best Restaurant Party, and this year I got to go with my friends from Vivo.

The Vivo crew proudly displayed a Tamagnini hand-operated flywheel slicer from Parma, Italy. We used it to slice our house-cured duck prosciutto. The prosciutto was a hit–the duck melted in your mouth like butter and the melon and balsamic reduction were simple but most delicious accompaniments.

It was a great time for us chefs to see and visit with all of our colleagues. Typically we never see each other because of the long hours we spend in the kitchen!  A diverse list of the best restaurants in town participated in this event. The list included: Avenue B, Bangkok Balcony, big Catering, Bistro 19, Casbah, Church Brew Works, Claddaugh Irish Pub, Common Plea Restaurant, Cross Keys Inn, Dinette, Eat ‘n Park, Eleven, Franktuary, Girasole, Gullifty’s, Harris Grill, Hyeholde Restaurant, Ibiza Tapas Restaurant and Wine Bar, Ichiban, Il Pizzaiolo, Iovino’s Café, Isabella on Grandview, JAC’s Cafe, Jimmy Wan’s Restaurant & Lounge, Joseph Tambellini Restaurant, Kaya, LePommier, Levy Restaurants, Mad Mex, Mineo’s Pizza House, Mio Kitchen & Wine Bar, Monterey Bay Fish Grotto, Nakama Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar, Panera Bread, Pangea, Penn Brewery, Piccolo Forno, Plum Pan Asian Kitchen, Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Salt of the Earth, Sesame Inn, Seviche, Silk Elephant, Smallman Street Deli, Soba, Square Cafe, SweetHouse Bake Shop, Taj Mahal, Tamari, The Carlton, Toast! Kitchen & Wine Bar, Typhoon, Umi, Vivo, Vocelli Pizza, Wild Rosemary, Wooden Angel and Yo Rita’s.

Here I am working the Tamagnini slicer

Chef Daniel, Chris Fennimore, and Sam DiBattista

Picture recipe for rabbit with pears

I always have the urge to cook rabbit for Easter. Once again I was not allowed to, and I had to wait until later on to do so. Last fall I canned pears from our pear tree, and I thought they would taste great in this dish.

This recipe is actually quite simple, and despite the many steps it’s easy to cook. You can substitute fresh pears or even store bought canned pears, since I don’t have that many more left to give you.

ingredients

• 1 rabbit
• 1/4 cup calvados or brandy
• 4 cloves garlic
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• black pepper to taste
• 2 tbsp flour
• 2 medium size turnips cut into cubes
• 1 rutabaga cut into thick strips
• 1 shallot minced
• 1 tsp. chicken bullion
• 1/4 cup white wine
• 1 fresh thyme sprig
• 1 fresh oregano sprig
• 3-4 pears canned/fresh
• 6 oz. baby spinach
• olive oil
• salt and pepper to taste

Make a paste with the garlic cloves, calvados, salt and pepper–I like to use my mortar and pestle for this. Rub the paste on the rabbit pieces. The butcher can break down the rabbit for you or if you feel adventurous, you can do it yourself–a rabbit is very similar to a chicken in this sense. Let it marinate refrigerated for at least a half hour.

While the rabbit marinates, peel and cut the rutabaga and the turnips. Reserve the rutabaga in water.

Heat up 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large dutch oven or pan, and lightly brown the turnips. Remove from the oil and reserve.

Flour rabbit, add 2 more tablespoons of olive oil, and brown the rabbit. Remove the rabbit and set aside. Saute shallot in the rabbit oil, then deglaze the bottom of the pan with the pear liquid and white wine. Mix in the chicken bullion at this point.

Return rabbit to the pan. Sprinkle the thyme and oregano over the rabbit.

Rinse and place the rutabaga and turnips over the rabbit. Salt and pepper. Cover and cook until the rabbit and vegetables are fork tender, around 15 to 20 minutes. Mix in the pears and cover for 5 more minutes to warm them up. If you are using fresh pears add them right after the turnips.

Wilt spinach in a separate saute pan and arrange in the center of the plate with rabbit, turnips, rutabaga and pears. Drizzle the juices from the pan over the rabbit and serve.

See the wine pairing for this recipe at best when shared: rabbit with pears.

Buen provecho!