I have to admit I was a little dubious about any hard cider that comes with the suggestion to "serve over ice!"

I was born and raised in Asturias, a region of northern Spain that is very similar to where I live now in western Pennsylvania. Apple orchards are a common sight in both of these landscapes. In Asturias, hard cider is one of the most popular and commonly enjoyed alcoholic beverages, but not in Pennsylvania, nor (as far as I know) anywhere in the U.S.

Hard cider is starting to develop a following in this country, but is still viewed by many as an inferior choice to beer. Maybe because of different marketing strategies, I find that many hard ciders in this country have many other ingredients other than just fermented apple juice, which is basically the main ingredient in fine European hard ciders. A good example is Crispin Hard Cider, which offers the suggestion of serving over ice–a bizarre idea bordering on sacrilege for someone raised on Asturian sidra! This beverage contains hard cider, filtered water, apple juice concentrate and natural apple essence. As a sweet apple flavored drink, well, it’s not bad. It’s probably a drink that would be enjoyed by many, but it’s not hard cider, not my kind of hard cider that you would drink as you would a beer. This Crispin cider beverage reminds me of an appletini or dessert drink–something like granny smith sorbet, not hard cider. But who knows–maybe it’s an encouraging sign to see more ciders on the market, even if they don’t necessarily match my idea of what hard cider should be.

Farnum Hill semi-dry hard cider, a great choice for our Thanksgiving feast!

Now, a good American hard cider is made in New Hampshire at Farnum Hill. Farnum Hill ciders are–in my modest opinion–great hard ciders. I have much to say about Farnum Hill, but for this entry, I will just say that Farnum Hill Semi-dry cider was my choice for this year’s Thanksgiving dinner, and it was a great pairing to our harvest feast.

Buen provecho!

David Bulman in the Bite Bistro kitchen preparing a salad of brussels sprouts for the Late Harvest Tasting Dinner

Since Vivo Kitchen moved to Sewickley, the younger DiBatista generation, Danina and Martina, have taken over the old Bellevue space with a new restaurant–Bite Bistro. Just like Vivo, Bite Bistro pleases hardcore foodies and everyday diners alike.

David Bulman is the chef. David is classically trained in culinary arts and the man running the show behind the line. I have had the pleasure to teach culinary classes and cook with David. He’s very passionate about his work. David is a strong supporter of local and sustainable products, and it shows in his menu choices.

Last week, Bite Bistro had a late harvest dinner. A prix fixe menu–seven courses. Bite Bistro has a tasting menu once a week and a special prix fixe dinner like the one I attended once per month. These dinner events are a great opportunity for anyone to get a good understanding of what chefs are working with for the season and maybe get to know the chef’s style as well.

David’s style is about using good, local ingredients (when possible) and using preparations that feature those ingredients in uncomplicated ways. David tells me that dishes like these are what keep people coming back. And I have to agree, simple, well prepared choices are definite winners.

The menu ranged from beets, and brussels sprouts to a duck, quail, and chicken trio. I know how much David enjoys working with duck, so I was glad to see it in the menu.

Beets were in the opening course and then we enjoyed them for dessert. The beet gelato with Gorgonzola and walnuts was a big hit. David also sent to our table a granny smith gelato. This gelato is part of their current menu and was delicious, a great way to finish any meal year around. I know David just made more. Go try it, and you’ll tell me how good it was!

The third course was quail, duck, and chicken; red wine glace de poule; carrot, ginger, local kale, and turnips. Notice the delicious optional foie gras there at the back of the plate!

An alternate selection for the third course was "Vegetable Spaghetti"--zucchini and cauliflower artfully shredded and dressed with chanterelle mushrooms and truffled pecorino.

Beet gelato with walnut glace and goronzola cheese

Martina DiBatista in the dining room of Bite Bistro

Figs stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped in jamon serrano

At a gathering earlier this fall some people were astonished to hear that I had a good fig harvest this year. A good harvest for my fig tree is around twenty to thirty figs. I now live in Pennsylvania–not the best climate for figs–but like many of my fellow “diegos” I have found a way to have our home grown figs. The fig tree makes a great addition to our patio in the summer. It’s about four feet high and confined to a large pot. Then, during the winter months, the fig tree hibernates in the garage.

Some people have their fig trees planted outside in an area protected from the weather and they wrap them when winter comes. I have also heard of people digging trenches and burying them during the winter (but that’s Paolo, the world’s only Italian redneck, so I’m not sure how common a practice this is). But for the most part, fig trees are easy to take care of and are fairly pest free. The only thing you’ll notice from time to time is a little damage from birds eating holes in the fruit, which is common with most fruit trees.

This year we had also had a chipmunk problem. A chipmunk discovered the figs and couldn’t get enough. One morning we saw this chipmunk carrying a fig in its mouth. The fig was almost as big as the rodent and loaded it down to where it was walking on its front legs only: the back legs were not touching the ground. I let the chipmunk get away since we had enjoyed so many figs this year, but I don’t know if I’ll let it happen again next year. Watch out, rodent.

Fethi whips up a Turkish specialty pizza at Giovanni's Pizza & Pasta in Dormont

Some might say that Pittsburgh has a lot to be desired when it comes to good food and places to find it. Hell, I catch myself complaining from time to time. But then I discover an out of the way place with delicious food, and I remember that Pittsburgh is the city of “hidden treasures.”

One of these culinary hidden treasures is Giovanni’s Pizza and Pasta in Dormont, owned and operated by Turkish engineer Fethi Turan. You might wonder what an engineer is doing cooking. Well, he engineers some tasty stuff.

Last Saturday morning I happened to stop by. He had friends visiting and he was busy making Turkish specialties for the guests. Right away I noticed the soujouk sausage on the counter. This is a traditional Turkish beef sausage, similar to a semi-cured chorizo sausage. He was in the process of making soujouk-sausage-and-eggs pide. Pide is a Turkish street food or a quick dish they might throw together at home for brunch, Fethi tells me.

Giovanni’s is a pizza shop and pide is like a pizza, Fethi says to me. See, Pi-zzzaaa—Pi—deeee, kind of similar, right? Hmm, I’m not arguing linguistics with you right now, Fethi, GIMME SOME PI–DE!

On the pizza dough that he has shaped like a canoe, he lays slices of soujouk and then runs it quickly through the pizza oven to get the dough and sausage going. When it comes out, butter and a little olive oil are added. Sometimes lard instead of butter, Fethi points out, but butter for this time. Then the eggs are cracked on top of the butter and back to the oven. When the pide comes out, the eggs are perfectly cooked. The dough and sausage are ready also. A drizzle of lemon oil for balance. “You better eat it while it’s hot!” Fethi instructs. A bite of this and you have all that is brunch in your mouth. Delicious and incredibly light tasting. Perfect addition to any brunch, or maybe a late night snack.

The delicious end result: pide! All the flavors of brunch in your mouth at once.

Giovanni’s and Fethi have many tasty surprises like this one. Give them a call, stop by, you won’t be disappointed.

Buen Provecho!

Giovanni’s Pizza & Pasta
3047 W Liberty Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15216
Phone: (412) 344-6622
Email: contact@eatgiovannis.com
Fax: (412) 344-7778

first bloom of the coffee plants

There are a couple of blossoms I could write about all the time, our twins, but I don’t want to bore you. So, let me tell you about some other blossoms in this cook’s life.

About three years ago, a lady I worked with got me a coffee plant (Coffea arabica) for my birthday. It was tiny, but there were actually a bunch of plants in one pot to make it look fuller and leafier. I took good care of them and they did well. As they grew taller I was able to spread them out individually in a long planter. We put this planter in our kitchen window in Oakland. The plants seemed to like Oakland, and they seem to like it here in the ‘burbs, too.

Last week one of the plants had its first blossom, and a few others have followed since.

Maybe in the near future I’ll be able to make me a cup of coffee from beans that were fully grown in house. That would be the ultimate “house blend!” Are you up for the challenge, corner coffee shop?

If you are interested in having your own coffee plants, check out http://www.guide-to-houseplants.com/coffee-plant.html

Buen Provecho!

Look, Daddy's on TV!

This Thanksgiving season, I have been thankful for–among other things–good food, good friends, and public television–and I got to celebrate all these things with Chris Fennimore during WQED‘s current pledge drive!

After tasting the soup I had prepared for Fat Club’s Harvest Day, Chris asked me to contribute the recipe to his Soups & Stews book, which is one of the membership gifts people can choose when they support WQED. And I was lucky enough to be available to go to the studio and cook this recipe during the pledge drive. Cooking on TV sounded like a fun experience, so last Saturday morning I showed up at the station with my “Spanish Harvest Soup” ready to go.

We had twelve minutes to make the soup, and the show was broadcast live! With the help from the magic of television and Chris’s expertise as a host, we were able to explain the basics of the soup and even have a taste before our time together in front of the cameras was over.

It was a great time–thank you Chris and WQED!

Buen provecho!

WQED's Pittsburgh 360 filming at Vivo

The first rule of Fat Club is, “There is no Fat Club,” but it’s getting harder to deny it all the time–especially with attendees like Chris Fennimore and the WQED/Pittsburgh 360 crew. They were welcome additions to our latest gathering, but they don’t keep a low profile.

Chris came ready to cook. He brought bread dough and before we knew it he had the counter floured and was shaping the loaf into a braid, demonstrating that he was very comfortable in the kitchen and that without a doubt he is one of us. Then Chris started to go around the kitchen, talking to the attendees while the bread was rising.

This Fat Club wasn’t much different than any other in the past. The only major difference was that when time came to talk about our dishes, we did it in front of a camera. Even as the dishes were assembled the camera man would come around to check on their progress.

As always we had a very broad and colorful menu: everything from mussel seviche to curried osso bucco. I made my version of a harvest soup and—surprise! It was vegetarian!

I know, no one else believed me, either. Everyone kept asking if I had used pork (“Jamon Serrano? Pork Belly? Bacon grease?”) but I didn’t, and it was delicious. No worries folks, I’m not turning vegetarian.

I’m not going to say much more about this month’s Fat Club. Many more “secrets” will be revealed in November when Fat Club is featured on WQED’s Pittsburgh 360 on Thanksgiving evening.

I will say that Chris’ bread was very tasty and I’d really like to thank Chris Fennimore; Rick Cook, the Pittsburgh 360 producer; and Bob Lubomski, the friendliest camera man I’ve ever met, for taking time from their schedule on a Sunday afternoon and sharing it with us.

Thank you all and Buen Provecho!

Chris Fennimore's bread

talking to Chris about the vegitarian soup I made for our "Harvest"-themed Fat Club

a few Fat Club works in progress

japanese knotweed

There are very few empty lots, roadsides or poorly kept yards that don’t have Japanese knotweed growing in them. This weed is one of the most powerful invasive species in the U.S. and it’s incredibly difficult to get rid of. It’s a tough weed all the way around. Its roots will grow under your sidewalk and in no time a large bush, bamboo like, will over take what once was a slab of concrete.

My wife hates this stuff with a passion. For years I’ve been telling her that a plant this strong and resilient must have some redeeming qualities. And it does: I found out that Japanese knotweed is an excellent source of resveratrol and emodin, both used for nutritional supplements and medicine.

But I was really interested to discover that bees love the nectar of the Japanese knotweed flowers. It makes a delicious monofloral honey called “bamboo honey.” This honey is like a dark, mild-flavored version of buckwheat honey and reveals a dark red color when held to the light. Joe Zgurzynski from Burgh Bees tells me that the dark honeys tend to be higher in antioxidants than light honeys, the same way red wines are higher in antioxidants than white wines. Bamboo honey is readily available from local beekeepers in this region in the fall. I haven’t had any of this honey yet, but I’m really looking forward to trying this local treat.

judge's ballot for Savor Pittsburgh event

Every year towards the end of August a formation of white tents is erected in the parking lot next to McCormick & Schmick’s to hold Savor Pittsburgh, a fund raiser for the American Respiratory Alliance. Under these tents more than twenty local restaurants compete for “Dish of the year.” A live band plays while the crowds enjoy some of the best culinary examples this city has to offer.

This year I was under one of the coolest tents, the culinary judges’ tent. It was a pleasure and honor to be chosen and I had a great time.

Events like this are always a great opportunity for me to see many of my colleagues and friends. And with all these great people around and excellent food, who can ask for more? For this occasion my wife, Laura, was able to come. She has not been able to get out of the house much lately since the twins were born. And yes, the twins were there also. They are a little young to enjoy any of this food yet–8 weeks old, but soon enough.

But, going back my main focus of the night, the food–1300 people had a chance to savor anything from meatballs to satays. And at the end of the night after all the votes were tallied the results were:

• Best Appetizer: SAVOY Restaurant and Lounge with the SAVOY Satay
• Best Entree: Tusca Global Tapas with the Pepper Pork Mignon, Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Apple Creme Fraiche
• Best Dessert: Tree Tops Restaurant with the Praline and Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Praline Sauce and Candied Pecans
• People’s Choice: McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant, SouthSide Works
• Dish of the Year: Tree Tops Restaurant with the Praline and Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Praline Sauce and Candied Pecans

I’m already looking forward to next years’ Savor Pittsburgh. I recommend it to everyone!

Buen provecho!

this meal was presented in a tagine

me, Christina French of Table Magazine, and Mike Lee of WQED

Savor Pittsburgh’s annual “Dish of the Year” competition
McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant in SouthSide Works
Thursday, September 2, 2010, 6:30 p.m.

Buen provecho!